Paula Wolfert has been visiting Moroccan markets and kitchens for fifty years. By now she knows what she likes, and she presents her favorite dishes—most of them easily manageable by a novice cook—in The Food of Morocco (Ecco, $45). Several years ago I spent ten days eating my way from Fes to Rabat to Marrakech, and many of Wolfert’s recipes evoke pleasurable memories of this delicious and low-cholesterol Mediterranean cuisine. (I always substitute olive oil for butter in the tangine.)   No tangine?  No problem.  Wolfert says it’s desirable, but not necessary.  I’ve consistently achieved success with tangine maghdor (seared lamb kabobs) with a clay pot in the oven.  You’ll find myriad ways to combine chicken, lemons, olives, and olive oil here to make a month’s worth of tasty dishes.